Style Illiterate

Red Pants

2012-01-31T13:07:00.000-08:00

Many years ago my wardrobe consisted of black, white, tan, and grey tones. This was pre-stylist and represented both the conservative nature of my job in corporate America and my lack of understanding on how to use color. Any use of color I could muster was "cute-sy", bordering on childish. Since finding a stylist, I have better understood how the right colors make me look better, brighter, and younger. Yes, forget fancy creams and pick the right color to loose weight and look younger in seconds. If you need a refresher on your colors, check out this earlier post.

On to the color trend of the moment. If you have not purchased colored jeans in the last year, you are either terrified of the potential fashion faux pas or you may be living under a rock. Anyone producing jeans these days is making green, yellow, red, purple, hot pink, and cobalt blue versions of their favorites. With all of the colored jeans being produced in the last year, one must ask themselves, is this trend for me? Or will I regret the photos in 10 years?

The trick to the trend is to wear these jeans with more basic colored tops - white, black, navy or tan. If you must do a print, stay with these basic colors but choose a plaid, stripe, or small print. Keep it simple out of the gates so you can warm up to the color trend. Color blocking (using two vibrant colors side by side) should not be attempted as the first venture into colored jeans. Otherwise, you may find yourself running and screaming away from color for the foreseeable future.

Are colored pants just for women, you ask? In 2009, I traveled to Italy and found many men sporting brick red pants. My husband is a brave soul. He picked up the color trend long before me with red, blue, pink and pale blue pants to boot.

I am happy to report I've successfully ventured into both red and blue jeans in the last 12 months. I'm steering clear of green and yellow, which are outside of my complementary color family. I have attempted one color block outfit, though I don't think I will return to that again soon. Maybe in another couple years.

Sincerely,
Style Illiterate

Color block travel

2012-01-25T05:25:00.001-08:00

I'm 4 months into a new job that requires me to travel quite a bit. My normal trip starts with a cab to the airport at about 4:30 am, which allows me to step off the plane directly into afternoon meetings. So I need to look professional and be really comfortable for the long commute. Getting this look down is a challenge that I'm still working on. Here is an attempt at the color block theme. Sadly, this shot misses the leopard print shoes which make drab a little more playful.

Always a work in progress,
Style Illiterate

Brand segments - Did I share this already?

2012-01-18T06:31:00.000-08:00

I realize in my earlier post today that I use some terms that might not be familiar to you. These are a little bit "industry" terms, but I find them useful in understanding some of the advertising and positioning that brands take.

Haute Couture: Synonymous with “high fashion,” haute couture is a derivative of the French term “high sewing.” In France, the label “haute couture” is a protected designation and you must be a member of the syndicate. Designers, who attain this elusive and coveted title, produce custom-made clothing for the world’s most influential and wealthiest. These styles are not sold online, but are sold direct by designers to clients.
Luxury: Prêt-a-Porter, Designer or “Ready to Wear” is one-step down from Haute Couture relative to price and exclusivity, but still serves a discerning and well to do client. An example of sites focused on luxury includes net-a-porter.com, Barney’s, and Shopbop. The highest end of Nordstrom and Barney's is really Luxury.
Bridge: Literally, the bridge between Contemporary and Luxury. Many luxury brands have alternative labels for the bridge market. Missoni has M Missoni. Chole has See by Cloe. Marc Jacobs has Marc by Marc Jacobs. Saks, Nordstrom, Barneys and even Amazon carry bridge products.
Contemporary: This segment presents mid-priced fashions both fashion forward and quality driven. Oftentimes, these designers interpret fashions from the couture houses, making these fashions readily accessible. An example of sites includes J Crew, Banana Republic, and Anthropologie.
Fast Fashion: Quickly produced product in a cost efficient manner, delivering “high fashion looking” garments, at the lowest price possible. The name relates to the manner of which items from the runway manufactured predominantly overseas with an extremely efficient turnaround. An example of stores includes H&M, Old Navy, Zara, and Urban Outfitters.
Discount: Usually looked at loss leaders, have quickly adapted to the fast fashion concepts leveraging their consumer’s buying power and reputation to fashion exclusive designer collections. An example of stores includes Wal-Mart, Target, JC Penney, and Sear.

That's my quick lesson. I think I might be Style Literate today!

2012 Shopping Guidelines: Part 2

2012-01-18T06:14:00.000-08:00

Greetings, friends!

So you've probably already dipped your toe in shopping for fashion online. Maybe you have already cultivated a set of brands and know your sizes in these brands. Now you are ready for the brand aggregators. That's just a fancy way of saying Nordstrom, Bloomingdales, Macy's, Amazon, etc. All the same rules from my first shopping entry apply (See original post) - don't forget to sign up for emails to watch for sales. What is different about shopping at department stores online?

1. Much broader brand selection allows you to shop one store.
2. A variety of price points across the store allows you to shop high and low.
3. The integration of online and in store is typically better than the single brand shops.
4. They typically have better selection of special sizes like petite and plus.

So let's review a few stores today that span the experience.

Nordstrom - Free shipping and free returns all the time. Nuf said. You can use the online shopping like your dressing room. Nordstrom legendary customer service carries over to its online space. I can also purchase online and pick up in the store. This lets me secure the item and determine if I need alterations when I arrive. Nordstrom also lets me shop by familiar in store department names like TBD, Savvy, or via C. This helps me orient price point and quality quickly. The site is aesthetically beautiful, which makes me happy to shop there. I can shop moderate (like Adidas) to designer (Prada). I can shop for a full season at Nordstrom if I need to. The one thing I don't like about Nordstrom is the lack of multiple views of items. Many other online retailers shot 3+ angles of a single garment. Nordstrom regularly only has one. This makes it a little harder to make a purchase decision.

Macy's - Just like the in store experience, the online shopping feels transactional. The site is functional. You pay shipping fees on purchases less that $100. You pay to return items, as well. Macy's doesn't have bridge or designer collections. I can shop moderate (like Adidas) to contemporary (Rachel Roy). Macy's doesn't allow me to pick up at the local store, but I can return at the store for free. I find Macy's great for filler pieces, but rarely shop a full season there.

Amazon - This is a bird of a different feather. You really need to know how to shop on Amazon to be successful with fashion there. Once you figure it out, it can be a great place to buy brands you love. First thing to consider here is Prime membership. This gives you unlimited, free shipping on products sold by Amazon. In costs $79 a year. For those who buy electronics and household items all year long, this makes a lot of sense. Moving on. While most people browse other clothing sites, many people search on Amazon. This can result in catastrophic results. Just type in evening dresses and you can giggle at the results. So instead of searching, please browse to clothing! Use the left hand navigation. Select clothing or shoes and wa-la. Ok, not quite. Select women. Now you are there. Select the category you want to shop. Once you are here, you gotta refine to get a manageable set of results. Are you tired yet? Let me tell you my trick. I just shop the contemporary shop. These are closer the brands I like and once I find an item I like, I can easily find other similar items on the detail page. And there are great brands, too - Joie, Winter Kate, Robert Rodriquez, Halston Heritage, etc. Amazon offers discount to bridge brands. I always select "Prime" as a filter to ensure my two day delivery applies and I get free returns. The last thing to know about Amazon fashion shopping is that Clothing and Shoes are two separate departments with two different return policies. On clothing, Amazon as the sellers offers free returns. On shoes, when Amazon is the seller, returns are not always free.

That's all for me today. I'll review more stores with each purchase.

Yours truly,
Style Illiterate

Corporate function

2012-01-02T16:20:00.000-08:00

So my current work environment allows me to wear jeans most days, but I still have to pull out the corporate attire from time to time. I abandoned the formal suit look about 7 years ago and went for more mix and match suiting. Luckily, I have pieces that I can dress up or dress down. This outfit, for example, can be easily in formalized with jeans on the bottom or a jean jacket on top. Versatility is key to any happy wardrobe and happy dresser.

2012 Online Shopping Guidelines

2012-01-02T16:15:00.000-08:00

Hello Friends and Happy New Year!

As you may be able to tell from my blog, I like to shop. My obsession since my baby arrived three years ago has turned from the in store shopping experience to the online shopping arena. And no, this is not a New Year’s resolution post to give up shopping. Instead, I want to share with you the lessons I have learned over the years, the best places to shop for what, the hidden ugliness to online returns, and other online shopping lessons.

Buying fashion online can be a little tricky. To be effective, you should know a few things in advance.

Cultivate specific brand stores for basics that have reliable fit. Yes, this will lead you to mall stores - JCrew, Banana Republic, Madewell, Loft, Gap, All Saints are good examples. After you know your fit/ sizes for a particular brand you will never have to stop in a mall again! Alternatively, cultivate specific brands you can rely on that are sold across multiple stores – James Jeans, Splendid, Frye as examples. This will allow you to shop multiple sites for the same brand. And don’t get hung up on size. I rang from a size 2 to a size 12 depending on the brand. The question is not the size, but the fit.
Sign up for the emails. These places have sales so frequently online that it feels like robbery to pay full price. Yes, that means you will have to clear out your inbox every morning until 9 AM with the sales news, but once you get the rhythm you won’t buy full price again.
Read the fine print. Some online stores are better than others on general returns, but even stores with the best return policies have final sale items. This means you can’t return it at all – no exchanges, credits or refunds. If you are unsure on a product, you don’t want to buy final sale (unless the deal is so good you don’t care if you lose the money to your curiosity).
Shop the competition. Once you have a specific item you want to buy, if it sells across multiple sites, be sure to check out the competition. This ensures that you will get the best deal. There are some sites like shopstyle.com that do an amazing job helping you with this research. No need to go site to site.

Now that you’ve prepared yourself, lets talk about some of the major players.

Gap/ Banana/ Piperlime – On the positive side, when you shop at these sites, you can have one shopping cart. Piperlime is definitely the more fashion forward of the three in the family and there are a range of price points across these families. Sizes, however, are not consistent. A Gap 6 does not equate to a Banana 6 to a Piperlime 6. You must know your size in the brand. Items are eligible for returns from 30-45 days. They make it easy to print off a UPS label to return from the site. Returns take about 2-3 weeks to credit your account. They are usually pretty good about getting your order right. The challenge with these guys is if the mess up something about your order, it is very hard to get it back on track.

J. Crew / Madewell – These are in the same company family. Sizes are cut pretty similarly for both stores. Both companies provide pre-printed labels for returns. I have even returned items that said “final sale” that they credit my card for. I have had no problem returning in store or online. Returns are credited within two weeks to my card.

Anthropologie/ Urban Outfitters – These are the same company family. Since they stock a variety of labels, sizes are all over the place. Anthro has a very loyal set of customer reviewers so it is pretty easy to get good information from fellow shoppers. People even provide pictures of themselves with height/ weight measurements. The sad news is I have consistently had problems returning online items in the store. My husband doesn’t like me shopping here anymore since it takes two or three more follow ups to get returns resolved.

All Saints – You might not have this store in your city yet. It is a London based shop. A little bit steam punk. I like it to punch up my basics. My husband is a rabid All Saints shopper. He can’t say no to a sale. And returns are easy breezy. Labels are provided.

Ok. That’s all I have the energy for tonight. Next post, department stores and Amazon.com…

Yours truly,

Style Illiterate

What to wear for a complete dousing of lobster and white wine

2011-12-07T12:52:00.000-08:00

A couple of months ago my lovely husband joined me for dinner at one of our favorite Italian restaurants. It was a special occasion as this spot is not normally opened for lunch. We went to enjoy a special chef's tasting menu for the foodie crowd. Since I am not a "lady who lunches" and this was a weekday, I worked through the morning and scurried over the river and through the woods to get to the restaurant. Arriving 15 minutes after the seating, I was a bit flustered and ready for someone else to take control for the next two hours.

My wine was poured and the waiters started circling with the first course of cold lobster on a lime sorbet with some type of gastro-molecular style butter dust. I'm not sure where the waiter lost his balance, but soon my plate was in my lap along with my wine glass. What was I wearing? A simple black dress. That's right. The LBT is not only popular for its sexiness and simpleness, but have you ever considered its ability to cover up food accidents? It worked like a charm. I stood up, dusted my entire front off, washed my hands in the rest room, was reseated at a new table and began to enjoy my meal in less than 3 minutes. A little sticky, but easy to clean.

For all of you that are a baby mommy, you know all to well the power of black to fight the inevitable jam fingers or snotty nose on shoulder. But the options in black can range from wearing a sack to wearing restraints. As a mom I'm always looking for comfortable, fashionable solutions. And I think the only way we can find these things is let each other in on our secrets.

The dress I was wearing was jersey. Say what you will about jersey, it is comfortable! And jersey done well can be fashionable. This is my go to dress in black with ruching over the tummy that gives me a waist line while hiding the inevitable belly expansion. Jarbo is a Bellevue, Washington design company that has recently opened shops in Bellevue, Madison Park, and online. They sell to the big department stores, as well, for those shopping Nordstrom, Neiman's or others. Here is a great example of a dress that can hide it all and still be fashionable. Click link.

So with that, friends, I ask you to share your fashion comfort secrets with me and with each other!

Style Illiterate

Boot season in PNW begins

2011-11-08T10:22:00.000-08:00

You can't imagine the things that my husband said to get this shot.

On a separate note, this is a super cozy outfit - like wearing PJs at work. Anything that combines fashion with comfort goes to the top of my list.

Brand Badging

2011-11-05T06:11:00.000-07:00

It was 10 AM. I was in the security line at SeaTac airport, ready to board the four hour flight to Austin. The middle aged couple four spots in front of me must've woken up at 6 AM to get ready for the flight. The gentlemen wore a Burberry jacket (visible by the pop of the symbolic tan tartan under the collar), gucci shoes and was carrying a large Louis Vuitton duffle. And that was what I noticed before he stripped for security. After laying their wares across 5 security tables, I was exposed to another Burberry jacket under the first, True Religion jeans, and a Dolce Gabbana tshirt. This, my friends, it what we call brand bradging.

Brand badging is not to be confused with iconic brand style. I'm not a huge fan of Louis Vuitton, but I can't dispute the fashion utility of the iconic brown bags. The classic Channel tweed jacket has been copied so many times, its used to describe the style like Kleenex to describe tissue paper. Brand badging is specifically the use of external labels on the item to promote the brand.

Fashion brand badging is much like driving a bright yellow hummer - it screams, "Look at me! I spent a lot of money on this stuff!" One brand badge often leads to two and three and four until you have a style miasma of noticeably branded fashion labels splattered across a single body. More often than not, it does not represent a style perspective but an economic position. And according to the Economist, this is exactly the affect it has on others. Wearing noticeable labels makes others think you are of higher status and wealthier.

Is this snobbery? Yes. Is it classist? Probably - and my "middle class" mores find it ostentatious. Have I done it? Definitely. I remember back in junior high when the pinnacle of my fashion statement included a Genera tshirt and an Esprit bag. Ok. I didn't have much allowance, but I felt like hot shit in my duds. It is a way of fitting in and saying "I belong." And let's be honest, its a lot easier than trying to find your own style.

How do you avoid the pitfalls of brand badging?
1. Beware of items externally labeled. This is particularly difficult on bags, but subtle labeling is different than the Gucci G spread across the entire bag. And since they are not rules, breaking them occasionally will not harm anyone. I will admit to lusting after a navy velvet Louis Vuitton bucket bag that stitched the brand across the velvet. But paying more to advertise for others is a sure sign you are be horn swaggled by a brand badge.
2. If you are wearing an iconic brand style, only wear one. A piling of the iconic, even if not externally labeled, often leads to the same style miasma.
3. Consider how the item, not the brand, fits into your style and image. How does it feel and fit? These questions alone will steer you in the right direction.

Oscar Wilde commented that "Only shallow people don't judge others by their appearances." It is normal behavior to judge, evaluate, make a quick estimate, of someone on the basis of their appearance. Some brand badging can help you score a job or a date. Too much brand badging says you don't know who you are.

As always,
Style Illiterate

Travel set

2011-11-02T05:29:00.001-07:00

Mixed prints

2011-10-24T08:53:00.000-07:00

This outfit was recently styled with Alethea. I really like the Ikat print scarf mixed with the floral sweater. Its warm and cozy. Add tall girl shoes and it makes the look a little dressier.

Travel gear

2011-10-20T05:30:00.000-07:00

This jacket is so great for warm weather. It is beige, but with a blush tint. I can't normally wear beige because of the yellow tones, but this works. It's also meant to be a bit wrinkled, which is required for travel. The dress is jersey and ruched at the waist for great comfort.

The French have a term called the "third piece" which means you should always add one interesting element to each outfit. You can have on a white tee shirt and jeans and then grab a fantastic scarf or bright bag to pop it up a level. Do I always achieve this pentacle of fashion? Hells no. You don't want to see me at the coffee shop on Saturday or Sunday morning when I have barely gotten out of my jammies. But we all have something to strive for. So my "third piece" here is the leopard print shoes. They aren't super gaudy 5-inchers. Just subtle 2-inch heels, but unexpected or interesting is the key.

And this is all recyclable travel garb for warm weather. The dress gets more rotation with little sweaters and scarves. The jacket is in heavy rotation with colorful blouses and jeans. One pump, one flat, and one running shoe and I'm done packing. I hope this helps my other traveling sisters.

Style Illiterate

Travel lesson #1

2011-10-18T21:29:00.000-07:00

You forgot your workout socks and you have to borrow some from a colleague. Luckily, Jeff's socks don't have holes, unlike others we know.

The fashion files return

2011-10-18T13:41:00.000-07:00

All right, friends. It has been a long hiatus. Since we last spoke, I followed my vision quest to work in the fashion industry and concluded that its not that important to me at this point in my life. That doesn't mean I've fully rejected fashion in favor of Birkenstocks. It just means I don't have to kill myself to do it for work.

The big lesson is this: I have come to realize that the pain one is willing to accept in work changes throughout your life. In my 20s, I was definitely willing to burn the midnight oil and clock ridiculous hours to learn quickly. Early 30s (read: pre-kidlet), I pursued big hairy challenges that made my brain turn sideways to solve. As I broach my 40s (still two years away, bi-yaches), I am really happy working with smart, talented people I really like (i.e. I can happily celebrate my birthday with them) on problems we all agree are interesting to solve. And I like helping other people be better at what they already do well. Particularly encouraging my female friends how much they rock and are really capable of.

Ok. So now that I've left my fashion vision quest, what does that mean to my personal fashion? Well, its become a little more comfortable. The trick is making comfort still fashionable. Right, ladies? AG Stevie jeans are a comfort staple for my body shape. Cute sweatshirts from Nike? Check. Purple Pumas? Check. And the five inch pump still comes out once or twice a week. I haven't died.

I have also returned to working with my original stylist, Alethea, and it is so inspiring. Here is what I love about Alethea:
1. Her ability to work with any budget in natural textiles.
2. Her ability to style and find the fun in each outfit.
3. Her ability to draw out and elevate your unique style
If you want her contact details, just email or face friend me.

Finally, I have bought the beloved new iPhone, so no more complaints about my crappy pictures.

With that, I have a few topics I've been thinking about. I'm just going to jot down some of the upcoming subjects so I don't forget. Remind me if you don't see them soon.
1. How to pack for work trips that cover hot and cold climates
2. Brand badging and other adventures in Louis Vuitton
3. Should I wear red pants?
4. What to wear for a complete dousing in lobster and white wine
5. Convention go-ers fashion - does it exist? Discuss.

Thanks, friends, for encouraging me to get back to my blog.

-Still Style Illiterate

Putting blog on pause

2011-01-27T09:20:00.000-08:00

Well, some of you have been kind enough to notice that I stopped posting. So thank you for your continued support. I have decided to put my blog on pause for now for a few reasons.

1. My friend Kaye is right - I should change the blog name.
2. My friend Maren is right - I need a better camera.
3. My new job in apparel at unnamed big company has allowed me to find a lot of other great personal fashion blogs and I realize I really need to step it up.

So during my hiatus, please follow some of my other favorite blogs I have found:

What Katie Wore
Kendi Everyday
In Her Stilettos
The Glamorai

XOXOX,
Style Illiterate

2010-12-14T08:07:00.000-08:00

My case for the new iPhone and more on scarves

2010-12-09T07:59:00.002-08:00

New iPhone

Old iPhone

All right. First, I have heard from many of you that my pic quality sucks. Yes, my friends are very delicate with me. I agree and this is my public pitch to my hubby for the new iPhone. See the pic quality difference between the two images? Vote for me to get my new iPhone now.

Second, remember Ms. M who recently met with a stylist? Here she is sporting a new scarf. Scarves are such an easy way to make a very basic outfit look interesting - adding color, texture and form. I asked her how she formed it and she was coached by her stylist to make it the messier the better. Just tie it around loose and tuck. I think it looks very French.

'Tis the season for scarves and boots

2010-12-06T07:37:00.001-08:00

This outfit makes me smile. You can't see the red tights here, but pair it with my red coat and eggplant bag and every time I get on the corporate elevators with throngs of black, grey and beige, it makes me feel like sunshine. And looking at my littlest lady also makes me feel like sunshine.

The other reason this outfit makes me smile is that I just picked up this scarf from Madewell for about $30. It reminds me of a Diana von Furstenburg scarf from this Spring that ran about $200. Also, I bought it on a little jaunt away from the household with no plan and no time limit to be home. I bought this scarf and then took myself out to dinner. It was lovely.

Who woulda thunk this bag would get so much use

2010-12-02T07:49:00.000-08:00

Stupid face, cute outfit

2010-12-01T07:43:00.001-08:00

I'm finally accepting the belt thing in my life. I got this top at
Buffalo Exchange and my alterations lady said it couldn't be fixed so
I'm just wearing a cami under to avoid major cleavage at work. After
work, well that's a different story...

Uninspired

2010-12-01T07:40:00.000-08:00

New personal shopper/ blog discovery

2010-11-29T03:05:00.000-08:00

All right. Some shoppers shop their style. Some shoppers shop your style. If you can't find the later, find the former that also matches your style. I just found an online stylist/ blogger that appears to do the romantic style quiet well. http://www.cardiganempire.com. I may test her out for spring season if we have any budget after the basement remodel.

Belt?

2010-11-18T08:33:00.000-08:00

Personal shopping success story

2010-11-17T11:26:00.001-08:00

This is the story of one of my colleagues, we shall call her Ms. M, who recently engaged a personal shopper for the first time in her life.

First, a little background on Ms. M. Ms. M is the mom of two young kids, works full time (and I mean until midnight most nights after putting the kids to bed), has a hubby who works... You get the picture. Life is hectic. Despite the frenetic pace of her life, she is still a very fashionable chic. When I met Ms. M, I noticed all the lovely details of her ring, her fluid emerald shirt, the cool boots, the lovely olive complexion. It worked. While this is what the outside observer sees, only she knows the chaos inside the closet. Normal clothes mixed with old maternity stuff. Clothes she fell in love with on the rack, but never wears. Clothes that are years old that she hasn't parted with. To use the popular vernacular, her closet was a hot mess. She heard me rave about personal shoppers and decided to try it herself. This is the message I got from her after a closet clean out and day of shopping:

"Was possibly the best day of my life after the birth days of each of my children. [Insert personal stylist name] rules. I’ll NEVER shop any other way."

Shopping with a personal stylist for the first time is like getting your first kiss as a teenager. There is so much bubbly glee, I wanted to capture the emotion and thoughts of the moment. We talked more about why this worked. It all comes down to time and selection. I don't know many women who claim to be bored. We are all busy. Busy people need a selection curated to their specific style, size, color, and lifestyle. The malls and stores are completely crazy with the amount of options you have. Any sane person would be driven mad with the amount of wading you have to do to find the right product for you. Her shopper pulled two choices for shoes, instead of thousands. Three pairs of pants, not hundreds. You get the picture. Its all tailored to Ms. M's style, color, size and budget. She is one happy customer.

For the record, her style is natural. Her body straight. Her color vivid, blue-based. And she is rocking this outfit. Go, Ms. M.

Enough spanx to secure an army

2010-11-17T08:48:00.000-08:00

Comfy casual

2010-11-15T11:48:00.001-08:00

One color

2010-11-10T08:11:00.001-08:00

Changing title from "Hmmmm" to "Fugly"

2010-11-08T08:07:00.001-08:00

After scrolling past this picture several times on my own blog (yes, I'm vain enough to look back at posts to see how it looks now), I've decided this outfit is not only confusing but ugly. The hubby liked it. I must have been ovulating when I wore this, because no one should like this unless they are under the spell of the womanly powers.

Chris and Karen's wedding

2010-11-04T18:54:00.000-07:00

Ok. They got married, not me. But I made the hubby snap my photo when no one was looking. It was a lovely wedding. The bride's dress was gorgeous. And gave me a good excuse to dress up. Thanks, Chris and Karen!

Elongating

2010-11-03T07:55:00.001-07:00

Not so great

2010-11-02T07:40:00.000-07:00

This picture actually prompted me to go running TWICE today. That's right. Get rid of the mommy belly, already. She's two! Anyway, I remember some advise my first stylist gave me that is timeless. The best thing you can do to build a wardrobe is maintain your weight. So true!

Happy Halloween!

2010-11-01T08:33:00.000-07:00

Simple solution

2010-10-27T08:00:00.000-07:00

Just ok

2010-10-26T07:46:00.001-07:00

The neckline is great. The sweater appears too small. This is just ok.

Fashion terror and other horror stories

2010-10-26T05:52:00.000-07:00

In the spirit of Halloween I thought I would take a moment to share two of my favorite fashion horror stories with you. And don't say you don't know what I mean. I know there is a picture of you hidden deep in the recesses of your closet with an asymmetrical haircut or a neon pattern shirt or a fuzzy Christmas sweater. We've all got them, so why not enjoy sharing your story with the rest of the world. The interwebs are totally anonymous, right?

The first story begins when I was twelve. My parents sent me to etiquette classes to learn how to behave like a proper girl around boys (if you know my husband, you know how well that worked). It was 6 classes once a week culminating in a big dance party at a hotel where all the young ladies wore nice dresses and the boys wore ties. I was so excited about my dress. It was peach silk with a drop waist. There were ruffles and bows in various places. It was cotton candy and I was in heaven. These were the days of pantyhose, and I was armed with mine. After several glasses of punch - yes, wild streak at 12 - I left to use the bathroom. On reentering, I got about 10 yards back into the ballroom before a nice hostess came up and escorted me back out. She promptly pulled my dress out of the top of my panty hose. That's right. I had reentered the dance with my dress tucked in to my pantyhose and my bum hanging out. When I say reentered, I was already talking to some boys who couldn't see my behind until the lady whipped me around to take me out of the dance. Mortified! I think I started the trend against pantyhose. I still refuse to wear them to this day.

Horror story number two occurred more recently, but there is some back story. When I was younger, my mother had a cedar chest filled with the most beautiful costumes. She had danced ballet into her twenties and kept all the costumes my grandmother hand sewed. Each Halloween we opened the chest and picked out something fabulous. I always had the best halloween costumes without really trying and I loved it - gypsy, can can girl, pirate, you name it. Fast forward to my early twenties. I was already hanging out with my hubby, trying to impress him any chance I could get. It was Halloween and I think I went as Morticia from the Adams family. This consisted of wearing a tight black dress and maybe some long jewelry. No wig. Robert took me to a party in Capitol Hill where the gays showed up in full force. Now if you are an adult and you've never done Halloween in the gay neighborhood of your local village, you are really missing something. The gays do Halloween like Catholics do Christmas. I mean, its serious. So in walks four guys dressed as 1920's aristocrats - long, tight dresses, fitted with a kick; huge, sweeping hats; and make up with prosthetic pointy noses that really elongated the whole look. They were stunning. Ok. The right thing to do in this situation is appreciate how fantastic they looked, not dwell on your own sad costume. But I was 20 and self absorbed so I dwelled. And dwelled. And dwelled. Its now more than a decade later and I have refused to celebrate Halloween since. I mean, if you can't be the best, why try? This is also why I quit running track. Party pooper.

Well this year I'm happy to report I have swallowed my pride (read: stupidity). My daughter is two and starting to understand the world around her and I'm not going to be the party pooper who stole Halloween from her childhood. That's right, the whole family is getting dressed as Wizard of Oz characters for Halloween and there will be pictures. Despite my neighbors best efforts for emailing me slutty Glinda outfits, I found a rather tame adult Glinda costume and tiara. There will be pictures and posts. And if you think my costume is lame, I don't care. This time I'm doing it for the kid.

Repeat theme with jeans

2010-10-25T08:19:00.001-07:00

I'm pretty happy with this. Just added a big, long crystal necklace to the mix. Subtle but fun.

Pocohantas and Amelia Erhart

2010-10-25T08:17:00.000-07:00

There are two of my favorite ladies from my local Buffalo Exchange -collectively known as the Laurens. Not only do they love my daughter, but they also buy my clothes and look out for good new stuff for me. Also, they are such creative dressers. Check out their Halloween finds from BE. Awesome style.

Repeat theme - little sausage

2010-10-25T08:16:00.000-07:00

So this one worked really well with a skirt, but makes me look like a little sausage with jeans. No s-curve shape to support my hourglass figure. Remind me not to do this again.

Red coat shortened

2010-10-20T08:13:00.001-07:00

You will notice that I altered this coat by about 4 inches. Coat length wasn't really something I considered before my new stylist team suggested we pull this one up. I agree - it looks like a lot better length. I had my tailor recover a cloth button that was wearing, as well. And after owning this coat for 4 years, I feel like it just got a new lease. We also altered this skirt which previously hugged down below my knee. The only thing new for this season is the boots.

Navy wool jacket with shawl collar

2010-10-19T07:44:00.000-07:00

This is a good example of taking my formal banker attire (Max Mara jacket) and making it less formal with jeans and red shoes. I feel good in this. I recently shortened the arm length slightly with my favorite tailor. Good improvement. And the only thing new this season is the dark, high-rise, boot cut jeans.

Alterations have arrived

2010-10-18T08:07:00.000-07:00

As a five foot tall woman with curvy proportions, I have developed a dedicated relationship to my tailor. For my figure, there is very little I find that is "ready to wear". Pant hems are obvious, but I often buy tops slightly long to allow chest fit. These must be altered too. I just altered this shirt, adjusting the straps up. Much better for coverage and comfort.

Friend Profile, Kaye

2010-10-17T20:27:00.000-07:00

I was able to spend a lovely weekend with my friend Kaye recently and we talked fashion. A little about Kaye. She is wonder woman. As in, super friend, super professional, and super wife. Like many women I know (yes, the finger is pointing at myself), Kaye has two very different wardrobes - corporate ass-kicker and weekend outdoors adventurer. Again, like me, when she shops, Kaye often buys outfits for something specific instead of considering her full wardrobe. The result of this type of shopping can be a confusing closet with limited relationship between clothes. Case in point, this weekend we needed an interview outfit that wasn't banker-ish. We found it, but I'm not sure how the pieces we bought work in the full picture.

In order to create a working wardrobe, instead of an outfit, you must evaluate the basics. We learned a lot about Kaye shopping for this outfit, even if it was a quick fix.

Body type - straight. Now there was much debate with Kaye about what that means. We pulled up the chart and talked about other types of women with this body type. Cameron Diaz or Kim Cattrall is a perfect example of a straight body type. "But I don't look like that!" explained Kaye. Doesn't matter. I don't look like Selma Hyak, but we are both hour glass. The reason why it helps seeing specific body type role models is that you can learn from them what works. Now I don't know much about dressing for a straight body type, but I learned a lot shopping with Kaye. She should never buy jackets that have a straight bottom. Jackets that are rounded at the bottom or have a defined waist look best. Also, with broader shoulders shawl collars can be a bit tricky.
Color - blue based vibrant (aka winter). Now this was a little confusing. I change my hair style like underwear. I have been a blond, brunette, red head with cropped, mid length and long hair at various points in the last 15 years. I have no idea what my natural hair color is. In recently identifying my color base as blue, I learned that the brassy hair colors I was wearing was doing nothing for my face. It was washing me out instead of brightening me up. I switched to a blue based brown and things have improved dramatically. Kaye is currently wearing a brassy blondish color, mid length. We tried some color draping and definitely saw an improvement with blue. Kaye is also attracted to vibrant colors. She feels more confident in them (important sign). But some basic reds we tried that should have brightened here looked awful. What we finally realized is there was a clash with the hair color. We discussed going to a blue based blond (ash blond) to support Kaye's natural color base - blue. Note to all: Hair color can really mess with your complementary color palette, making colors that should be attractive appear unattractive. There are blue and yellow based hair colors in all shades of blond, brunette and red. Choose a base within your complementary color palette and you should be ok.
Style - natural. No, this does not mean hippie. Kaye is not a hippie. Remember from the style post - natural is athletic, relaxed, informal, warm, casual. Lots of texture. Clothing never tight or full. Simple detail. Actually, Cameron Diaz does a great job as an example of this style, as well. Kaye was surprised she looked good in a little bit of ruffle and a lot of pattern for underpinnings. I have always thought she looks best in interesting prints.
Life style/ stage - casual professional, family focused. Have we talked about this one yet? I don't think so. More in depth analysis to come. For Kaye, her work life is moving from banker to a more relaxed corporate environment. After almost 15 years in banking, Kaye may take some time to adjust to the less formal environment. What I have learned myself is that while this feels like a big change, adding some strategic casual pieces (good jeans, a couple casual jackets, and cardigans) has allowed me to continue to wear my more formal attire in the new environment. However, I think Kaye is in need of a wardrobe sweep to clear out the noise of around color, body type and style. Once that is complete, Kaye will serve her broader wardrobe by focusing on some key casual pieces in her style, color and body shape traits.

Shopping with Kaye was great for me as I don't get the chance to think about this body type or style very often. Hopefully, the analysis was helpful for thinking about the wardrobe in the future. And once Kaye lands the awesome job in the Pacific Northwest, a wardrobe shopping trip is in order.

Style Illiterate

Jean dress

2010-10-16T05:04:00.000-07:00

I love this dress. I'm trying to determine how to layer it for Fall
without losing the silhoutte.

Wide legs make wide mommy

2010-10-14T14:07:00.001-07:00

Your remember this jacket from last week? This is a similar execution
with wide leg jeans and it's terrible. Very boxy affect. This jacket
needs a slimmer silhouette.

Snuggy Chic

2010-10-08T08:29:00.001-07:00

It's a cold wet day in the Pacific Northwest. Nothing better than
boots, a comfy dress and drapy sweater.

Give me some sass

2010-10-07T09:02:00.000-07:00

Another new sweater jacket

2010-10-06T11:45:00.001-07:00

This one is all about the detail of the blouse and pumps. I think the
sweater is a little boxy looking.

New sweater/jacket per stylist recommendation

2010-10-05T07:52:00.001-07:00

A classic style dressed down.

It's going to get a little tricky now - your personal style

2010-10-05T05:09:00.000-07:00

There are so many different schemes for personal style today I can hardly stand it. Modern, Chic, Natural, Downtown, Bohemian - it gets really confusing for the average dresser. Go to any well meaning site today, and you will find some sort of style prescription that may or may not fit your personal style. How do you sort it all out? Pick one style profile system and stick with it. It will be easier to map other styling systems to your profile, than trying to sort it out for each new system you find. I subscribe to the Color Me Beautiful style templates:

Dramatic: Formal, aggressive, energetic, stimulating, impulsive, mature. Bold contrasts of color. Angular, unbroken lines. Plain necklines. Widely spaced designs. Extreme exaggerations. Emphasis on the waist.
Natural: Athletic, relaxed, informal, warm, casual. Lots of texture. Clothing never tight or full. Simple detail.
Classic: Well-proportioned, tailored, conservative, slightly formal, reserved. Soft pleats or folds. Simple skirts. Small details. Simple lines. Softly tailored neck. Clean, straight lines.
Gamin: Perky, youthful, cooperative, energetic, friendly. Bright colors. Short jackets. Small details. Casual and youthful proportions and prints.
Ingenue: Social, creative, sensitive, carefree, idealistic. Curvy details and lines. Gathers. Princess and empire silhouettes. Feminine and soft.
Romantic: Sophisticated, suave, mature, theatrical, sociable. Very feminine. Restrained curves. Emphasis above the waist. Fitted waistline. Softly tailored. Neck and upper chest are open.

So my style is primarily Romantic (examples below), with a subtext of Ingenue. How does this map to other styling systems? On ShopBop, I'm "girly." On Banana Republic, I'm "flirty and feminine." At Saks, I'm "contemporary." At Nordstrom, I'm "current." See what I mean by confusing?! So find a styling system that makes sense to you, educate yourself on the primary attributes of your style, and stick with it by applying other systems to yours. Of course, by knowing your style, you will start to notice specific stores and brands that cater to your style. Anthropologie and Valentino are great for Romantics. Banana Republic is Classic central. Marni, depending on how worn, can be Dramatic or Natural. If your not sure how to interpret yourself in the style templates above, just ask your best friend, mom, or sister and they will peg you in 2 minutes or less.

Style Illiterate

You thought the hubby analysis was direct...

2010-09-29T15:49:00.000-07:00

My new stylist team took very thorough notes from our first visit. Checkout some of their tips below. I think it encapsulates a lot of my self criticism. I am learning about the arm length for my figure.

Romantic pieces with an edge hold special appeal. Strategic draping with properly placed seams help make this style compliment your figure.
Natural fabrics and mixed textures are preferrable. With a more petite stature and lovely hourglass shape, it is important to balance thicker textures so that they don’t overwhelm you
Shoulders that are overly “strong”and turtle or crewnecks are create thickness and are foreshortening and should be avoided
While not expressly forbidden, boatnecks and cap sleeves are to be approached with caution. Cap sleeves especially can create a wider upper arm or a wider line across a fuller bust. A deep scoop neckline and an elbow or 3/4 length sleeve is more flattering
Waist-defining staple pieces are a must, especially in jackets and dresses
“Snuggy chic” is a great aesthetic, but we need to watch proportions so you don’t become overwhelmed with fabric
As a “true winter,” being thoughtful with color and tones is crucial. You are not limited to only jewel tones, but we’ll avoid most all greens, many browns, and grey-based peaches and muddy pastels.
Patterns should be proportionate to your frame (the smaller polka dots and stripes are more complimentary)
Alterations are your friend, for items you have as well as new items
Proportionately larger head looks great in cozy knit caps (I confess, I told her I had a large head)
Black tights with black boots and pumps with lengthen the leg in fall and winter, as will a camel/nude pump or sandal with a bare leg in spring and summer
You are not relegated to a pointy toe, but shoes with toes that turn up at the end can shorten the leg and aren’t your best choice

Style Illiterate

Not terrible

2010-09-29T10:28:00.001-07:00

Not great, but not terrible. I like this bag for Fall to brighten things up a bit. The sweater is a little conservative for my style. The overall affect is a little butch. See the contrast with the immediate previous post, and you know what I mean.

Work uniform

2010-09-28T11:06:00.000-07:00

Yep. This is my work uniform. It's a little boring here, but very
comfortable. A new tee from Jcrew and a sweater from Buffalo Exchange.
It works. No fuss.

Block of black

2010-09-27T20:18:00.000-07:00

Not all outfits are created equal. This on looks like a black block on
me. No shape. Just a block on top of boots. Next time I reach for
this, I will remember the great block and avoid the error of my ways.

Out with the old, limit the new

2010-09-26T18:56:00.000-07:00

I am interviewing a new stylist. No names here so no one gets hurt in the making of this blog. Up to this point, no one has matched the creativity of my first stylist, but alas, it wasn't the right timing for either of us. The stylist I am currently interviewing comes as a team. I was introduced to one of them through the I-can't-afford-her stylist. We had a get-to-know-you meeting a month ago (you should expect this before any money is exchanged), and were finally able to get into the wardrobe this last week. This was the first closet edit where I was more aggressive than the stylist. If it wasn't working, there were no compromises. Gap sweaters I bought last week that are already pilling - gone. Balenciaga vest that I was persuaded to buy due to a sale price in 2009 - outta there. Remember that first photo of the silk Dries von Noten skirt that was bad - bye bye skirt. We were ruthless. And this is not normal for a first time closet edit. I was pushing harder than the stylist to clear out the noise. Typically you can expect to get rid of 1/3-1/2 of your closet if you've never done this before and you are a horder like me. This was more like 2/3 and I was digging it.

Why was this so decimating? Since early 2008, I haven't worked with a stylist on a consistent basis. I've shopped mostly on my own. As I've told you before, sometimes that's a hit. More often than not, its a miss. As a result, I have again amassed a large pile of things that I've rarely or never worn in my closet. For some reason, I have a really hard time seeing the truth in a mirror at a store. I am more in the fantasy of shopping and newness and trend. Not the reality of my shape, that terrible color, and the slimming mirrors. I mean, why the hell would I ever think it was a good idea to buy an octopus or Cancun tee. Delusional.

One cool part about this edit is that the stylist is going to sell some of my items at a consignment shop, so I can make some money back for shopping. I also sold a bunch of stuff to Buffalo Exchange. Thank you, ladies! I returned sweaters to Gap and ghastly shirt to Jcrew. So now I have some credit to buy a few pieces that work for the season. We also found a number of things that could be salvaged if altered. Those items are with my trusted tailor.

What was the analysis after all the carnage? I have very few underpinnings (shirts) and need some cardigans. More good jeans would be a help, but not necessary. Not bad. And I feel more sane about having a closet that makes sense. It was a cleansing ritual that was long over due.

Style Illiterate

Take the blanket off

2010-09-23T20:50:00.001-07:00

Nuf said.

Hubby's analysis

2010-09-23T20:42:00.000-07:00

The hubby just broke it down for me on what is working and why in each post thus far. As a former mathematician, he spent most of his time talking about geometry and body type, but I got his drift. Here is the basic analysis:

I'm a banana-hour. I don't even know how that is possible.
Wearing any structured shoulder doesn't work for my "muscular" build. Get rid of any shoulder padding or structure. This is the same man that called me pumpkin-ass and thought it was a complement.
I need to show neck so I don't look like an injured midget.
High collars look great with v-necks on me, as long as there is a slopping shoulder.
Wear lady like lines around neck and shoulders to soften my muscles. Does this guy think I'm a line backer? To be fair, one of my closest friends comments on my bi-athlete neck on a regular basis.
Ok. Now he is making fun of my head size. If I was 6'6", my head would be 30" in circumference (derived from my current head:height ratio).

Where do you go from here?

Style Illiterate

But sanity finally prevailed

2010-09-22T08:43:00.000-07:00

The beauty of having a stylist is eliminating the daily dilemma of what to wear. Good stylists will help you put together the best looks of the season so you are not wasting time thinking about it. This morning's fashion catastrophe took 20 minutes of unnecessary time. Thank you, patient husband. I felt much more comfortable in this style.

And then this....

2010-09-22T08:35:00.000-07:00

I think this shirt needs to be returned. Talk about a block.

I almost left the house looking like this...

2010-09-22T08:33:00.001-07:00

Ugh! It's not just the picture that is wavy. The whole outfit is wavy.

More lady attire

2010-09-22T05:19:00.001-07:00

I like the profile of these jeans. Slim, but not showing every detail of my leg. I'm still debating if this is the right color red for me.

The things that come out of my husband's mouth before he takes the shot cannot be repeated on TV.

Do belts work?

2010-09-20T08:18:00.001-07:00

The hubby's is not sure the belt theme I'm rocking the season is
working. I'm debating this as well. I think it works in some cases
(see snuggy chic), but maybe not here with the vertical stripes.
Friends, don't be gentle. Give me the truth.

Some information on color

2010-09-19T19:41:00.000-07:00

I love yellow, but yellow doesn't love me. Camel is king this season, and if I don't steer clear of it, you won't be able to see me outside of a one block of beige. It is my personal camouflage. Why does one person look lovely in camel and another person disappear? Why do you feel more appealing in one color v. another?

Colors communicate different things in our culture. According to John Molloy's Dress for Success, to communicate authority and increase our likelihood of promotion in a business setting, one should wear black, grey, navy, and camel. These are the colors of the upper-middle class. Red draws attention. Pink is thought to signal sexual attractiveness. Green expresses creativity. And so on and so forth. What I have noticed over the years is that I am more attracted to a certain palette of vibrant blue tones. In my home, in my art, in my clothing, this is what I feel most attracted to and comfortable in. A simple color matrix can be broken into the following:

Blue-based vibrant (Winter)
Blue-based pastel (Summer)
Yellow-based vibrant (Fall)
Yellow-based pastel (Spring)

A person's color palette is merely a function of the skin tone. Blue based, olive, and darker complected look better in winter/ summer. Red based or peach skin looks better in fall/spring. You probably already know your color (hint: those you are most attracted to throughout your life, not just this season), but in case you are confused just ask your mother what colors look best on you. If you don't like your mother's opinion, ask your dearest friends. Or pay attention to what colors you are wearing when people complement you. If you have the chance to have someone drape you to see the visual affect of color on your skin, go for it. But you will be paying to confirm what you already know. This may be the third time I've mentioned this book in this blog (and its only two months old) but Color Me Beautiful by Carole Jackson is the bible of color analysis. Buy it and treasure it.

One last thing on color, you can always go outside your complementary color palette, but you will not look as good. Why wear yellow when you can look so much better in blue (or vice versa, my yellow-based friends)? If you must buy that fun color outside of your range, put it on your feet or in your handbag. I do have a pair of yellow platform sandals that I love to wear with a sailor theme during the summer, but they are as far away from my face as possible. You see I have a tan jacket, but I try to wear a navy or red to punch it up into my range. Preferably, you are a stronger person than me and you can steer completely clear of the mistakes. Alas, I am still style illiterate.

Style Illiterate

Some information on body types

2010-09-18T04:25:00.000-07:00

Any one who knows me knows at my core, I am not cool. I'm the girl that calls weed mar-ee-wana loudly at parties, as in, "No mar-ee-wana for me, thank you." I also enjoy musicals and going to the state fair each year. I have come to accept this over the years and stopped trying to fight the inevitable stream of nerd-dom that is my core. That brings me to wikipedia. Anything you've ever wanted to know about anything is on wikipedia. I use it daily. If you want to know about idempotency of systems - wikipeida. Planning a trip to Bologna - wikipedia. Interested in standard body forms for women - I've included it here, from wikipedia. And frankly, after reading these descriptions, I now realize I'm not really an hourglass. I'm a banana. I think I've considered myself hourglass all these years because of the big chest issue (another topic).

Why do you care about your shape? A simple choice, like a shirt dress, can be beautifully right or terribly wrong based on the combination of your shape and the dress form. Also, your shape and the clothing form can play up or play down your body type. An hourglass figure can play up her body type in a wrap shirt dress or play down in a straight shirt dress. A pear can rock an open or embellished neck line with an A-line skirt to draw the eye up. The original UK ladies who created What Not to Wear had some great advise on this front (sorry to out you Clinton and Stacy). Ok. Here is the useful information.

Apple (triangle downward)

Apple shaped women have broad(er) shoulders compared to their (narrower) hips.Women of this body type have (much) higher androgen levels compared to women with other body types. Because of this high androgen level, the skeleton develops in a very masculine pattern. Apple shaped women tend to have slim legs/thighs, while the abdomen and chest look out of proportion compared to the rest of the body. Fat is mainly distributed in the abdomen, chest, and face.

Banana or straight (rectangular): The waist measurement is less than 9 inches smaller than the hips or bust measurement.The body has a relatively high androgen level compared to the estrogen level; this causes the skeleton to develop in a bit more masculine pattern and body fat to be distributed predominantly in the abdomen, buttocks, chest, and face. This overall fat distribution creates the typical ruler (straight) shape.

Pear or spoon or bell (triangle upward): The hip measurement is greater than the bust measurement.The distribution of fat varies, with fat tending to deposit first in the buttocks, hips, and thighs. As body fat percentage increases, an increasing proportion of body fat is distributed around the waist and upper abdomen. The women of this body type tend to have a (relatively) larger rear, robust thighs, and a small(er) bosom.

Hourglass shape (triangles opposing, facing in): The hip and bust are almost of equal size with a narrow waist.Body fat distribution tends to be around both the upper body and lower body. This body type enlarges the arms, chest, hips, and rear before other parts, such as the waist and upper abdomen.

A study of over 6,000 women carried out by researchers at the North Carolina State University around 2005 found that 46% were banana (rectangular), just over 20% pear, just under 14% apple, and 8% hourglass.

So get out your tape measurement, ladies, and find out what shape you are!

Style Illiterate

Repeat theme

2010-09-17T08:04:00.000-07:00

This version includes some granny jewelry. I love my grandmother's jewelry. One thing my grandmother taught me is that beauty doesn't have to be expensive. She shopped consignment and used sales for furniture and jewelry on a regular basis.

Lady Look

2010-09-17T07:56:00.000-07:00

It's officially Fall. Rain and fog and sweaters required. Animal prints are all over the Fall trend reports. I have a few pieces from several years ago, including this leopard print bag.. I don't carry it very often, but I think it completes the lady theme. In general, I think this works, but the band on the sweater base is a bit blunt on my form.

Terrible mistake

2010-09-15T16:38:00.000-07:00

If this doesn't scream, "Look, I'm pregnant!" I don't know what does. BTW- I'm not. Check out how the bloussey-ness makes me so top heavy. I'll try this top one more time and then it's a toss.

More boots

2010-09-14T17:07:00.001-07:00

A little bit of old, a little bit of new. The boots are super mom comfy and the only major purchase I made for Fall season. I think this works with the jacket nip at the waist.

Saturday stroll

2010-09-09T22:31:00.001-07:00

This is what I wore while judging everyone else. You might not have deemed me successful either.

Dress for Success and other advice

2010-09-09T22:21:00.000-07:00

I have a friend who swears by the golden rules of Color Me Beautiful and Dress for Success. I recently picked up New Women's Dress for Success to see what all the fuss was about. Dress for Success was first written in the 1970s by a researcher, John T. Molloy. The book is research and data driven analysis of how some forms of clothing perform better than others when it comes to corporate success. The book really took off in the Eighties when power suits had lots of shoulder padding and the briefcase was the status bag.

The material was last updated in 1996, right on the cusp of the internet revolution and casual Silicon Valley workplaces. As I was reading this, I kept wondering how it would apply to today. I work in the technology sector where most people are happy they got some clothes on on the way out the door in the morning. But even in this most casual, west coast environment, some of Mr. Molloy's advice still holds true. One of the most blunt pieces of advice he gives is that people perceived as upper-middle-class are more likely to be successful than others. If you are able to mimic this behavior, you can be successful too.

While I was reading the book, I found myself paying close attention to my judgements of others out in their daily life based on their appearance. Take this test the next time you are out in public. For one hour, ask yourself if someone is an executive as s/he walks by, and you will find very quickly there are certain things you will look for. The people you assume are executives are slender, neat, traditional, conservative and like "everyone" else. I observed my own tendencies, as well, and realize I have certain rebellious streaks that really pull me away from Mr. Molloy's recommendations.

Rules I Break
1. Dress to fit in with your co-workers. Given that most of my coworkers are men who have the convenience of a baggy blue dress shirt and jeans uniform, this is generally not the case. Even when working with women, I have preferred to stand out in my attire. I'm not convinced this is necessarily a good thing.
2. Be one of the more traditional dressers in your group.Since the tech sector does not cater to fashion conscious folks, I tend to be less traditional. When I was in financial services, I found ways to wear John Fluevog shoes to work, throwing my difference in the face of the man. Thinking back, if I'm an executive looking at such a person, I would wonder if they will be able to effectively represent the company. Interesting hindsight.
3. Make sure your hairstyle and makeup say "executive". I change hairstyles like some people change their bed sheets. I could probably tone this down to be less visual about my hair.
4. Wear serious footwear - no boots, sneakers, sandals, and spiked heals. Given that I'm 5 feet tall, I'm constantly wearing very high heels. I've also been told every inch is $10,000 in salary, so I'm making $50,000 in footwear alone. I also think the boots thing is dated. But have you seen any executive wear boots to work lately?
5. Wear only upper-middle-class colors and combinations - gray, navy, black, beige. Sometimes I follow this, but I have a hard time being pulled away from purples, pinks, blues and whites.

Rules I Generally Follow
1. Carry and wear obviously expensive accessories. I do love bags and shoes and have splurged on occasion. I wear a lot of my grandmother's costume jewelry.
2. The best casual clothing is made of natural fibers. Done.
3. Neatness counts when you are dressed casually. Agreed. I can do a better job of this on the weekends.I mean, I was judging people simply walking around shops on a Saturday if they were successful. Don't think it doesn't happen to you.
4. Don't dress sexy to work. Mr. Molloy points out that if a man dresses inappropriately, another man will say something. If a woman dresses inappropriately, no one will say anything since the men are embarrassed and the women don't think its their job. I have had the pleasure of coaching some young female team members on clothing appropriateness, so I have seen this avoidance in action. Once you are sexy at work, it is hard for people to take you seriously.

I'd love to see this book updated for the tech sector. What attire rules do you see followed for successful people in the tech business? In your sector?

Style Illiterate

P.S. If I dressed sexy at work, you would tell me, right?!

First boots

2010-09-09T08:23:00.000-07:00

There is a lot going on here. I love the coat. It is a winter staple
bought in 2007 at JCrew. The sweater attempts to mimic that lovely V-
shape cream sweater I wear in summer. I'm debating if it is too long.
The jeans I dug out of a box of "I'm feeling fat" clothes and I've
decided I really like them for the Fall.

Fall Fashions

2010-09-09T08:11:00.000-07:00

Going out with hubby

2010-09-04T21:46:00.001-07:00

This outfit is snuggy chic. I feel cozy all night, but still a bit
dramatic. The sweater is from a Washington designer - Jarbo. The belt
makes the hourglass form work, I think. Maybe a little too thick
around the middle. Keep in mind, I'm posting this from a gelateria.
Ciao ciao.

Blue and beige

2010-09-03T08:44:00.000-07:00

Tan is a tough color for me. It can really wash me out. I have to pair
it with one of my better colors, like blue. The jacket is leather -
soft and supple -but the boxy shape isn't great for the hourglass
physique. Hence, the small belt to bring in the shape. I'm not sure
this is working yet. Thoughts?

Summer is almost over

2010-09-02T09:22:00.001-07:00

These pictures are taken by my husband. Usually he is telling me to
pretend I'm on the Alps or at the Domo, neither of which we've been
to. As a result, you will normally see me laughing or smirking. As far
as this outfit, I think it generally works. The shoes look a little
blunt. The color and form are right. And I like the v-shape the
sweater leaves. It works for the hourglass.

Am I breaking blogging ettiquette?

2010-08-31T23:23:00.000-07:00

I couldn't resist sharing this other blog posting (from a cooler blog, of course) on the language of fashion and age expression through clothing. Its interesting for thinking about fashion at any age - On Being Age Appropriate.

One out of four

2010-08-31T15:14:00.000-07:00

All right. Now that you have been able to see several of my daily designs, you may understand why I consider myself fashion illiterate. Its not that each day is terribly wrong. Its just that it's not terribly right. Most of my friends graciously pretend to think I am fashion savvy. But I think they are looking at individual pieces instead of the total picture and how it impacts my presentation. "That's a really cool bag", or "Love the jacket" are regular complements, but rarely do I hear, "That total look really works. Nothing stands out, but the whole composition". Do I sound overly vain? Probably. Are my friends reading this right now thinking I'm needy and high maintenance. Yes, and they are right.

What is really frustrating to me is trying to sort through all the noise in fashion magazines and trends that come out each season. My body doesn't change much from season to season. At this point in my life, I would like a few simple uniforms for each part of my life. I would like these uniforms to be cohesive enough that it all looks like my style, but flexible enough to reflect different parts of my personality.

1. Mom uniform - This is my casual weekend gear. Last year it consisted of some Gap Long and Lean jeans and a JCrew LS perfect fit tee and a scarf. It worked pretty well for a Fall casual uniform, but I think I can do better.
2. Work uniform - This is my daily gear that can include pants, jeans, cardigans, jackets, heels, etc. This is currently a bit scattered with no single uniform template to follow.
3. Going out uniform - Probably the scariest area for me, this one often bleeds into my work clothes. Sometimes I go out with Robert on Friday night and I'm dressed like he is my client. Other times I go to work looking like I'm going to a disco. I can't make up my mind.

What are your uniforms? Here is perfect example from one stylish lady - Gitte Lee.

Style Illiterate

Spring/ Summer Coat

2010-08-30T13:13:00.001-07:00

I must admit that I got this coat right after having a baby. Well, pictures don't lie and it still looks like I'm pregnant. There is something about double breasted clothes on an hourglass shape that is really unflattering. Notice how the chest looks square and the rest of the physique looks puffy. This jacket should probably go.

360 days of Fall

2010-08-26T08:48:00.000-07:00

This outfit is very comfortable, but looks boxy in this shot. Not
helping my hour glass figure. The colors also don't look great. Too
many shades of beige. C- today.

Last days of summer

2010-08-26T05:18:00.001-07:00

I'm pretty happy with this outfit. It's the right coloring (winter
white) and fit (hourglass). The necklace is from my friend Kaye after
I decided and earring would be better as a necklace. She made that
happen.

What to look for in a personal stylist

2010-08-26T05:12:00.000-07:00

Since I have hired and interviewed several stylist, I have a few ideas of what to look for. What I know now is that that finding all of the elements of a good stylist it is challenging. Much like a new boyfriend or hairdresser, nobodies perfect and you will have to except some flaws to get the results you need. I mean, they have to accept me too, right?

The four fundamentals in working with your wardrobe are style, fit, color and lifestyle (read Color Me Beautiful for the fundamentals). For example, I am a romantic with an hourglass figure, a winter color palette and an working mom lifestyle. We can get more specific than that, but that's the gist. A good stylist will have training and understanding in all of these elements. What is training in this arena? Nothing formal exists yet. Look for someone who has worked in retail for several years, is able to sew clothes, has schooling in apparel and fashion, and someone with established clients in her styling business. If you can't find all these characteristics, you may settle for one. If you find all of these for less than $150 an hour, send me her contact details immediately!

You get your hair done on a regular basis, right? Nails too? How about the occasional facial or massage? So why wouldn't you pay someone to help you with a primary element of your personal appearance? I have found a variety of fee schedules for personal stylist ranging from $75-500/hour. Did you see the previous entry on the stylist I couldn't afford? My sweet spot is the stylist between $125-150/hour. I pay that for in-person time only. That could be a closet edit. A shopping trip. A styling session. She will scout for me (and all of her clients), pull pieces for try on in advance of a shopping trip, and keep informed on available clothing for no fees. That is her preparation time. Here is a basic seasonal fee schedule:

1 hour wardrobe edit
2 hour in store shopping
1 hour styling
Total cost: $600

I know what you are thinking - I could have bought a ton of clothes for that $600! Really? Look in your wardrobe. At least half of it is dead on arrival. You don't wear it. Never have. You like the idea, but are waiting for just the right elements to bring it all together. Let me tell you - its not going to happen. Chances are you should not have bought over 50% of what is in your closet. I'm guilty of the same thing so I'm pointing the finger at me too, ladies. Working with a stylist costs money, but on net, can save you money if you have a budget. And the results are a smaller wardrobe that you wear all the pieces. The items I bought with my first stylist are in much better rotation in my wardrobe than the crap I have personally added, hands down.

All right. Next time, I will give you some comparisons of the crap I bought compared to my stylists and you will start to see the difference.

For now,
Style Illiterate

Jacket good. Skirt bad.

2010-08-23T21:42:00.000-07:00

Rate this outfit. I think the top works and the skirt looks like a box.
Shoes make me look like I'm and ice cream cone.

History: Part 2

2010-08-23T06:59:00.000-07:00

Now that you have a sense of my lack of style, let's talk about the next phase of my style history - working with personal stylists. Gasp, you say. How decadent, you think. I felt the same way. Here's how it happened.

A dear friend of mine was a unique dresser. Think skater betty on top, mom pants in the middle, and goth chic on the bottom. Like me, she was a hot mess. She had been working with dudes in technology for most of her career and hadn't been actively dating, so it didn't seem to matter to her. After over a decade with the same company, she moved on. I didn't see her for 6 months. The first time I saw her again was at someone else's going away party and she looked hot. She was wearing jeans that looked great on her, a really cute girly top, and shoes and a bag that worked the whole outfit. And the coolest part - it all looked right on her. Not some fashion magazine pull out. Was she dating? Was she getting laid finally? What was going on? I asked and learned the dark secret. She had hired a personal stylist.

And I had the same reaction you are having now. Decadent. I can do it myself. Too expensive. Waste of money. I would never. Now lets fast forward two years. I left the my corporate safety net to start a consulting practice with a friend. Getting a business off the ground takes more time than anything. We were working days, nights and weekends. I had more money, but less time. I couldn't spend 6 hours on the weekend looking for the perfect winter coat. So I took the plunge.

I hired my first stylist in 2006. My first stylist was a true creative. She could see my style underneath all of the noise. We cleared out more than 50% of my wardrobe. Got rid of the shiny black pants I'd been lugging around since college. And yes, the satin skorts went too. Our first shopping trip together was 5 stores in 60 minutes. It was so wonderful, the first memory still brings tears to my eyes. She pre-pulled all of the items. We picked up about 6 things and we were done. Awesome! Stylist 1 had the eye to dress me in my style and the patience to evolve me into more sophisticated versions of that same style over several seasons. Unfortunately, we were not the right personality match at the time, so I eventually moved on.

By moving on, I mean - first I got pregnant. Grew 40 pounds on a five foot frame (1/3 of my body weight). Had an abnormally large baby and lost the weight. Before returning to work, I hired Stylist 2. Stylist 2 didn't make me lift a finger. She came to my house with a selection of clothes. We picked what we liked and she exchanged a few items, which were promptly back in my hands. It was a wonderful process. As a process designer by nature, I could really appreciate this lady. Unfortunately, she did not have the eye for my style. I ended up on clothes that any other mom might wear. It was not true to my style. Keep in mind, I still couldn't say what my style is, but I knew it wasn't it after wearing the clothes for a short period.

Enter Stylist 3. Ok. She was never really my stylist. This is my want-to-be stylist. I bought a session with her at an auction. I know I can't afford her bill rate, so this was the only way. We spent four glorious hours together talking about my style, my colors, my frame. She asked me question after question about what I preferred. We got the the end of the first hour of questions, and she shared with me my primary and underlying styles. She gave me a simple description of what she saw. Next we did colors. Then we did measurements. Then we talked lifestyle. After 3 years of working with other stylists, I was finally armed with information about me. I can describe my style, my silhouette, my colors and what will work in my lifestyle. I can be specific with sales people. And I know it when I see it. I also know it when I don't see it. It is a true victory. And I can never go back.

Style Illiterate

History: Part 1

2010-08-22T15:48:00.000-07:00

When I met my husband in college, I was prone to wearing Grateful Dead t-shirts, baggy jeans and yellow socks with tevas. I liked to smoke a pipe from time to time and listen to Tom Petty. You get the picture. My hubby came in to my life with a swing in his stride, fantastically broken-in cowboy boots, and a cigarette case that matched his lighter. Can you say swish? We were a match made in heaven on all fronts but the fashion.

Over the years, I have had an ebb and flow of trying to be more fashionable than my teva times, with some limited success and some flame out failures. While some things come naturally to me (spacial design, process design, and business design), fashion has always been a struggle. And I've always wanted to be better, which has resulted in some really desperate combinations. For debate tournaments in high school, I would show up in a cocktail type dress with sheer pants and a pearl choker. I choose to wear satin skorts with thigh high stockings to my college classes (now trying to impress my husband). I'm the girl that shows up wearing 7 REALLY unusual pieces. I think the current industry term is "hot mess".

Truth be told, I've never really took the time to understand my own style. Instead, I've followed the trends, buying crap each season and never wearing half of it. I have collected a really unusual (I like to think playful) collection of shoes over the years. Now that I have a daughter, I can see my choices are closer to a two year olds than a grown woman. As I type this, I am wearing a silly Old Navy tee shirt with a "Swoon in Cancun" motif, some skinny black Kut from the Kloth jeans and some monkey socks I picked up in Tokyo. Who wears this crap? Oh yes, my two year old loves the socks.

So this blog is not another fashion blog, but a blog about the fashion desperate. The girl that always wanted to be cool, but never quite made it. If you are cool, you can gloat in your better-ness by reading this blog. If you are like me, you can appreciate the lengths that one will go to to try to attain the holy grail of fashion.

Style Illiterate